Dave Byrnes' Adventures

Round Ireland - 2016
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Day: 035
Date: Thursday, 28 April 2016
Start: Cloghane
Finish: Castlegregory
Daily Kilometres: 28
Total Kilometres: 976
Weather: Cold, strong winds, frequent rain and hail showers, and some sun
Accommodation: Kelliher's B&B
Nutrition: Breakfast:  Cereal, toast & jam
Lunch:  Muesli bars and chocolate
Dinner:  Doner kebab & chips, jam tarts
Aches: Still some twinges from strained muscle/tendon behind left knee.
Highlight: The isolated walk along Fermoy Strand (beach) with the wind blowing, waves crashing, and occasional rain squall.
Lowlight: None really
Pictures: Here
GPS Track: Here
Journal: I was woken a couple of times during the night by heavy rain on the window by my bed, and the view across Brandon Bay from the hostel dining room while I ate my breakfast looked ominous - scudding low clouds, windblown waves and rain squalls.

I left soon after 8:30am and after about 4km caught Lainie and Mike having their first break.  After exchanging greetings, I continued on and shortly after a cold heavy rain squall passed through and I was glad I was still walking and water-proofed rather than huddled by the side of the road as they had been.

The Dingle Way soon crossed a thin line of dunes onto Fermoyle Strand (beach) and turned east for an 11km beachwalk along the shore of Brandon Bay.  The wind was strong, and rain alternated with sunshine, making it a bit of a battle against the elements.  Mostly, the sand was hard, but the tide was coming in and I was occasionally forced up onto the steeper pebbly section abutting the dunes.  I was ready for a break after a couple of hours, but the idea of stopping on the windblown beach wasn't very appealing, so I just kept on walking.  I was pretty sure that when I reached the village of Fahamore at the end of the beach, and crossed to the other side of the peninsula I would find a sheltered spot.

The low sandy and remote end of the peninsula, location of the villages of Fahamore and Kilshanig, reminded me of Cape Cod in the US.  There was a herd of horses roaming free, some of whom were lying in depressions sheltering from the cold wind.  Eventually, I found a great spot protected by a stone wall and facing a quiet sheltered bay for a break, but it had taken the best part of four hours to get there.

I took my time having a snack at the pretty bay before continuing down what I hoped would be the sheltered side of the peninsula towards Castlegregory, my destination for the day.  Sadly, the profile of the sandy peninsula was so low, the wind was still strong, just from a different direction.  Also annoyingly, there was a heavy camber to much of the beach which made walking difficult, and the odd rain squall made me glad I had made good time so far and would be finished early.

In the last few kilometres before Castlegregory I passed a very sad-looking and deserted beach sports area, with offshore floating platforms and equipment hire facilities, and then an equally bleak and unappealing holiday caravan park.  Finally I reached the village and then kicked myself for not having noted on the map, as I usually do, exactly where my B&B was located.  I couldn't find it on my smartphone map either, and eventually stopped in at the village post office and confirmed I was going the right way.  Shortly after I checked in with the owner, yet another Mary, for a welcome 3:30pm finish for the day.

I later ventured back into the village to get some dinner and snacks, before putting my feet up at the B&B, hoping that the weather will be a little better tomorrow, although the exposed beach today probably made it seem worse than it really was.

ADVENTURE LIST

 

Round Ireland
(2016)

Hume & Hovell Walking Track
(2013)

Via Alpina
(2012)

Australian Alps Walking Track
(2011)

Land's End to John O'Groats
(2010)

Round Oz Bike Record Attempt
(2009)

Round Oz Bike Record Attempt
(2008)

Round Oz Bike Record Attempt
(2007)

Australia Tip to Top MTB
(2006)

Adelaide to Darwin MTB
(2005)

Sydney to Melbourne MTB
(2004)

Three Peaks Race
(2004)

Appalachian Trail
(1986)

Alpine Track
(1983)

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You can email Dave directly at dave@davebyrnes.com.au or subscribe to his Adventure Blogs here.

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