Dave Byrnes

Round Ireland - 2016

Overview Planned Schedule Map Diary Pictures

Day:	033
Date:	Tuesday, 26 April 2016
Start:	Dunquin
Finish:	Shanacill
Daily Kilometres:	25
Total Kilometres:	927
Weather:	Cold, windy and mostly sunny with a couple of brief light showers
Accommodation:	An Bothar Pub and B&B
Nutrition:	Breakfast: Two jam tarts Lunch: Ham, cheese & tomato sandwich, muesli bar and chocolate Dinner: Pan-fried chicken with vegetables, apple crumble and ice-cream
Aches:	Muscle/ligament strain behind and just below left knee
Highlight:	The cliff-walk south of Fermanagh in bright sunshine and brisk winds.
Lowlight:	Bitterly cold first hours. Air temperature was just above freezing and a very strong north wind brought a significant windchill.
Pictures:	Here
GPS Track:	Here
Journal:	I had a dormitory and bathroom to myself in the hostel and slept long and well. Although I could have paid for a basic breakfast, it wasn't going to be available until 9:00am, so I decided to make an early start and eat snacks or whatever I could find later. As I was leaving, the American girl, Lainie, was also preparing to leave and we saw each other several times during the morning hike. The first time was only about 30 minutes after leaving the hostel, when I stopped in a protected farm lane to add long pants, a sweater, a beanie and gloves. I had underestimated how cold it would be, especially heading north directly into a bitterly cold and strong wind across very exposed country. These conditions continued for a relatively boring roadwalk, made somewhat interesting by the sight, in the far distance, of beehive-like buildings on stilts on a cliff top. Apparently, it is the set being prepared for some scenes from the next Star Wars movie and filming will start in about three weeks. I had been told it would be visible from the Dingle Way, but that heavy security prevented anybody getting too close. Soon after, the trail turned eastwards and a couple of long beachwalks followed around the edge of Smerwick Harbour. The wind was strong, whipping up the breakers, and the weather alternated between bright sunshine and showers, while the occasional lone gull screeched overhead. It was very elemental and quite enjoyable, now that I was dressed for the occasion. But perhaps the best part was that the injury I had sustained yesterday just below the back of my left knee, was hurting much less than yesterday. I could more or less walk normally, though got the occasional sharp pain if I stretched too far. On reaching the end of the beachwalk I met Mike, Lainie's father, who was sheltering from the elements behind a beach wall while waiting for Lainie. She had told me they were planning to hike together for a while and he already knew who I was. We had a chat, and I may see them again along the trail. After another kilometre or two, at around noon, I came across a little village store where I ordered a take-away sandwich, having eaten only two jam tarts all day thus far. I then walked on a short distance and found a nice sheltered spot in the sun on the sand at the village harbour, and had my lunch. My progress for the day was much better than anticipated last night, and on checking the map I could see I only had about 10km to go for the day. After lunch, the Dingle Way followed the grassy clifftop to Feohanagh with the waves of the deep blue sea crashing on the rocks below. The cliffs weren't that high, but the views were good and clear across Smerwick Harbour and ahead to the little houses of Feohanagh beneath the bare hills. The last 5km followed a pleasant mix of back roads and farm paths, somewhat protected from the wind, and I reached my B&B at 3:00pm. It was nice to have an early finish and doubly nice that my leg injury doesn't seem as serious as feared yesterday, although tomorrow's big climb will be a true test. I had dinner in the pub bar at 6:00pm and was joined by Gina, the other hostel guest from last night who I didn't actually meet. She is German and touring this part of Ireland walking some sections of the same trails I have been hiking. We are both heading for the same hostel again tomorrow night, so no doubt I will see her along the way. After dinner, I was able to watch the UEFA Champions League match between Manchester City and Real Madrid, which was a nice end to the day.