Journal:
I left the rather pricey and
atmospheric hotel soon after 9am, having to stop on
the porch to get my raincoat out as it had started
raining. There were also a lot of midges about
so I had also put on some repellent. My walk
started with about 4km along the Glen Garry road in
a westerly direction before I turned north along a
moderately steep path towards a pass. Most of
the glens (valleys) in this part of the world run
east-west and, since I am mainly heading north, my
day will comprise climbing over three bealachs
(passes) and crossing the glens in between.
Although the path wasn't
too bad, the wet undergrowth from the rain soon
meant my boots and socks were wet. My boots
are showing signs of wear and the left one now has a
hole in the upper by my little toe. The
showers came and went, but generally the visibility
was very good and I had clear views up the steep
sides of the mountains I was passing between.
Nearer the pass, the path became quite boggy in
parts and my pace slowed as I found my way around
the difficult bits, with the aid of my trekking pole
as a prod and support. Glen Loyne was a remote
and desolate place with no sign of civilisation
apart from a deer fence. the valley was wide
with the shallow River Loyne flowing down the middle
and across the valley I could see the next pass I
had to climb. But first, I had to leave the
path I was on and go cross country to the river,
find a place where it was shallow enough to ford
(but not, unfortunately, shallow enough to keep my
feet and boots dry......I don't like fording in bare
feet because it makes you unstable and prone to fall
and wastes time). The ford was without
incident and then I had to make my way cross country
again, climbing the other side of the valley up to a
saddle where I connected with the old Skye road
which is now closed to traffic. It was now
nearly 1pm, but I knew I had the old road all the
way into Strath Cluanie and the Cluanie Inn where I
hoped to get some lunch, so could keep a good pace
for a change. There was barely any radio
reception, but I heard a snippet that said Australia
now had its first female Prime Minister.
I took my raincoat off
after getting warm on the climb, but there was a
cool wind and by the time I reached the remote
Cluanie Inn, which was on a busy road along the
valley, I was getting quite cold. Knowing that
I would not be having much for dinner tonight, I
ordered some very over-priced bangers and mash for
lunch and then, after putting on a sweater, headed
out for my last pass of the day over to Glen Affric.
The path started out dry, but then became quite
boggy for very long stretches. I settled down
to a couple of hours of hopping from one semi-dry
spot to another, finding my way around marshier
bits, and trying to follow the line of the track.
You can't actually walk along the track in many
places because it is so boggy, so what you tend to
do is follow its line, but off to the side.
However, you still encounter bogs and streams and
can't avoid a few misteps. On one occasion, I
planted my trekking pole, intending to vault across
a boggy bit and the pole rapidly plunged all the way
to the handle (1 metre) in the morass. I
wasn't expecting it and, as my weight followed the
pole into the bog, my pack came forward over my head
and I very nearly nose-dived into the bog.
Although the walking was
challenging, I frequently stopped to admire the
concave valley sides sweeping up to the 1000m
mountains on either side. I felt dwarfed and
isolated, but thrilled to be here and reminded
myself that I will probably never pass this way
again. Eventually, the boggy path descended
slowly into Glen Affric, hugging the contour of a
hill, and giving fantastic views to the west.
At last I spotted the two very isolated buildings
that make up the Youth Hostel and finally reached
them about 6:45pm. I was the only guest, but
the young German couple looking after the place
assigned me to the Annex, the other unheated
building about 30 metres away, to sleep, despite
there being two unused dormitories in the main
(heated) building where the shower, kitchen, toilet
and common room were. I accepted my fate, put
my boots back on and walked to the Annex.
The hostel is apparently a
favourite with Munro baggers. Munros are
Scottish mountains of more than 3000ft and it's very
popular to try and climb them all. There are a
few close to the hostel.
After a shower, I cooked
the savoury rice I had brought with me and plan to
have an early night once I have updated my diary.
I looked at my food supplies and wonder whether I
have brought enough given that I will be camping (or
maybe staying in a hut) tomorrow night and won't see
a shop until late the next day. Ten Snickers
bars and about a kilogram of trail mix (M&Ms,
peanuts and sultanas) should be enough.
