Lands End to John O'Groats - 2010

 Diary

Day 22

 

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Diary

Monday, 24 May 2010 - Near Evenjobb to Craven Arms

 

 

Weather:

Sunny and warm

Accommodation:

Hotel B&B (£35)

Aches:

Tired feet.

Kilometres Travelled Today:

34.4km

Total Kilometres Travelled:

654.3km

Nutrition:

Pie and pastie and ice-cream for brunch; toad-in-the-hole with mash, gravy and veges and sticky toffee pudding and custard for dinner

Pictures:

Here

GPS Track (.gpx format):

Here

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Journal:
Got up at 7am after a warm and sticky night, interrupted by some inquisitive cows munching right up to the tent on several occasions.  I was already pretty sweaty and grimy when I went to bed in the clothes I had worn all day, and was thankful I had bought a sleeping bag inner for this trip that can be washed quite easily.  Otherwise, my sleeping bag would become pretty gross pretty quick.

Anyway, I was walking by 8am on another already warm and sunny day.  I followed more Offa's Dyke earthworks for part of the way and enjoyed the pleasant path which again climbed to semi-moorland and then descended to valley floors, farms and tiny villages on several occasions.  The climbing and descending made for slow progress, especially in warm conditions, but I didn't push it.  I was entertained throughout the day by low flying military aircraft, the first being a jet fighter that passed so low I could easily see the crew in the cockpit.  Later I saw a number of low-flying Hercules transports.

After a final descent through an attractive and unoccupied golf course, I arrived in the busy little town of Knighton around 11:30am, ready for some breakfast and fluids.  I found a bakery, and followed that with a visit to a tiny supermarket where I bought some supplies to see me through the rest of the day.  I had 21km still to go to my target of Craven Arms, but figured I could do that comfortably during the afternoon.  Knighton was a significant point in the trip because it marked the point at which I left the Offa's Dyke Path and headed north-east across the English midlands towards the Peak District and the Pennine Way, my route north to Scotland.  I was sorry to leave Offa's Dyke Path because it had been well-marked, generally easy underfoot and spectacularly scenic.  Thoroughly recommended.

I'm back now following the less-travelled paths suggested by my guide-book.  The way out of Knighton began with a long and arduous climb in very warm conditions to the top of Stow Hill (~400m).  Near the top, on a very steep and gravelly path, I met an un-helmeted mountain-biker weighing many kilograms, coming down the path.  I consoled myself with the thought that there was no way he had ridden up.  He was having some trouble getting traction and holding his line on the descent.  A big fall seemed imminent, but I didn't hang around to watch.

I travelled much slower than I hoped during the afternoon, with more ascents and descents, some rough fields to cross and considerable heat.  Yet I wasn't too bothered as the views made up for it and I passed through some very old villages with interesting old buildings.  With about 7km to go, my route began following a lane which followed the line of an old Roman road, virtually straight for kilometre after kilometre.  I spent some time pondering those who had built it, and passed along it, 2000 years ago.  What did the countryside look like then?  I was supposed to leave the road and walk the last 4km along some footpaths but, when I got to the track junction, and saw waist-high nettles, I decided to sticvk with my Roman road which was also heading in the right direction.

I reached the small town of Craven Arms at around 6:30pm and, after wandering around a little, found the only establishment that seemed to offer any accommodation and was lucky to get a room.  I had to wait half an hour in the bar until they could get their last free room ready.  As usual, I washed out the days gear while I showered, putting the plug in the bath and doing some "grape-mashing" with my feet before rinsing each item out.  You would not believe the black sum mark left in the bath when I emptied it.  I had to do some vigorous washing down.

I had dinner in the bar watching the England vs Mexico "friendly" on their large screen, but went back to my room at half-time.  Hard to get too enthusiastic about a game that really didn't mean much to either team.  Less hills tomorrow, but a longish day.

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