Journal: |
At breakfast, I met Mike, another resident who was also hiking
the Pennine Way. He, like Andy and me, is aiming for Byrness
today and he told us that there were a number of other hikers in
town aiming for the same Hostel (where I didn't have a booking),
meaning it would be quite full. There were few other
accommodation options there, so I knew I should call them as soon as
I had mobile phone coverage.
Fortunately, as I climbed out of Bellingham through pastureland,
I got a signal and called the Hostel who called me back several
minutes later to say that they could squeeze me in if I was willing
to sleep on a fold-up bed in a small alcove, which I accepted.
They also said I could get dinner there and buy food for the next
day, which was good to know since there weren't going to be any
other resupply options that I was aware of. While I had phone
reception, I took the opportunity to make a few other phone calls
and ended up spending more than 30 minutes sitting on top of the
hill enjoying the sweeping views and chatting to people in
Australia.
It was a perfect day for hiking, cool, overcast and just a light
wind. Humidity must have been low because it was possible to
see over the rolling hills far into the distance. After
crossing a few rural properties, the Pennine Way moved onto moorland
covered with tussock grass and heather, with quite a few boggy
patches. Again, I was aware how fortunate I was that it had
been a dry winter and spring, and it was possible to avoid getting
my feet wet at all with some judicious path selection, use of the
trekking pole, and the occasional large step. While I took a
morning break on top of Whitley Pike (356m) I enjoyed watching a
military jet going through its paces low overhead, with some sharp
turns, rolls and steep climbs. In the distance, I could hear
explosions which may have been artillery or perhaps bombing.
Andy caught me and we spent some time working on his feet, some
parts of which looked a bit grim. I gave him my last big
blister patch.
After following the high ridges of the moors, the path then
followed the edges of Redesdale Forest, part of a giant conifer
plantation, for some time. There were some steep boggy
difficult parts, but generally the walking was reasonable and
further along the path went through the forest itself on forestry
roads. It makes a nice change and I enjoy the smell of the
pines. My iPod has finally dried out and has begun working
again, and I spent the last hour or so into Byrness, on what had
turned out to be a pretty easy day, singing along to the iPod as I
walked through the forest.
I arrived at the Hostel, which is privately owned, at 4pm and was
able to check in immediately. Fraser, a five-time Pennine Way
hiker who I had met during the day was already there, as was Mike,
from the B&B this morning. The hostel is full, with some
cyclists and a family of five, also walking the Pennine Way.
There's a bit of excitement amongst the Pennine Way hikers as
tomorrow is their last day. But it is a long one of about
48km. They are all planning to get up early and reach the
final town, Kirk Yetholm, in time to check into their B&Bs, have a
shower and get down to the pub for England's first World Cup match
against the USA at 7:30pm.
My route leaves the Pennine Way after only about 8km tomorrow and
my goal will be the largish town of Jedburgh, which is only 31km
away. However, I think I'll get up with the Pennine Way hikers
and leave soon after 6am in the hope of reaching Jedburgh in time
for a late lunch and a lazy afternoon, before also watching the
World Cup. Jedburgh is in Scotland, so I'm not sure who the
locals will be supporting. Crossing into Scotland and leaving
the Pennine Way marks the next milestone of my trip.
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