Journal: |
After some discussion last night, Keith and I have decided to
plan for some shorter days. We are a bit limited by where
places to stay and resupply are located, so have to either go for
long days or short days. Our plan is to have two shorter days
(20-25km), followed by one long day (40-45km), but we'll see how it
goes.
We left the hostel soon after 8am and walked a kilometre into the
centre of the village where we found a cafe and ordered some
breakfast. By the time we had done that, and made some calls
about accommodation, it was after 9am before we started walking on
what we were told was a relatively flat section. The sun was
already warm on our backs as we walked out of Earby along a disused
rail line towards Thornton-in-Craven where we rejoined the Pennine
Way (we had detoured via Earby to stay in the hostel).
The route passed through classic undulating rural scenery with
the grassy hillsides dotted with sheep and cattle, stone fences and
beautiful stone houses. After crossing one hill, we dropped to
the peaceful Leeds & Liverpool Canal, and followed that for a couple
of kilometres. We passed a couple of hikers, one totally
blind, who had shared our dormitory in the hostel last night and
were aiming for the same hostel, Malham, as us tonight. The
two walkers we had shared dinner with last night at the pub, are
also aiming for the same hostel, so we are like a small moving
caravan.
Because of the warm conditions, we were pleased to see a sign on
one of the canal bridges that a small shop could be found at the
next canal bridge and we began fantasising about cold drinks and
ice-creams. Of course, when we got there, we found it closes
on Thursdays! Fortunately, we didn't have that much further to
our planned lunch stop in the village of Gargrave, where we arrived
at noon after crossing some more low hills. We had a light
lunch and bought some drinks for the afternoon from a nearby store
before setting off for the remaining 10 or so kilometres to Malham.
It was very warm, but we were not pressed for time and took a
mid-afternoon break in the shade of some large trees across the Aire
River from the village of Airton. Very pleasant.
Then, for the last hour walking of the day, we hiked upstream
along the grassy banks of the River Aire to Malham arriving around
4pm to find there was a kind of children's festival going on called
the Malham Safari, with all kinds of activities. However, it
seemed that most kids were paddling and splashing about in the river
in the middle of the quaint little village, while there parents
dozed on the banks or enjoyed drinks outside the two town pubs.
I got my camera out to take a picture of the kids in the river,
saying to Keith that I would probably be arrested if I did it in
Australia, and he said I probably would in the UK as well, so no
picture.
We left our packs at the Hostel (which didn't open until 5pm) and
I wandered through town looking for some maps I need for the next
few days, while Keith had a doze at a picnic table in the sun.
He's enjoying some of the same problems I experienced in my first
few days, and we have decided to be less ambitious on Saturday,
reducing the long day we had intended. It will leave me a
little behind schedule, but I can make that up easily enough.
The next few days, though shortish, involve some big climbs and, if
it is as warm as it was today, it will be hard work.
We checked into the large hostel at 5pm and, after showers, I put
on a load of washing in their machine. We have ordered dinner,
breakfast and a packed lunch for tomorrow. We won't be passing
any supply points, but the scenery is supposed to be spectacular.
No mobile reception here and poor reception last night, so it will
be a little while longer before these diary entries are emailed.
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