|
Journal: |
The guesthouse landlady came across the the annexe where I was
staying at 8am to tell me breakfast was early so I could make an
early start. I hadn't requested this and was packed ready to
go, so I really think she just wanted to get breakfast out of the
way (there was only one other couple as guests) so she could enjoy
more of her Sunday, which was fine, but better if she told me the
night before. However, I'm not complaining. She really
looked after me and I would recommend her guesthouse to anyone
visiting Hay-on-Wye.
As I walked out of town in the already very warm morning sun at
9am, a motorist coming out of his driveway smiled at me and said "I
hope you've got plenty of water". It was going to be a
"scorcher". I was still following the Offa's Dyke Path and the
early walking was across farmland next to the River Wye, before it
turned inland along some shady forest paths, which were most
welcome. Along this section, I was caught from behind by a big
and strong guy, my age, who was also on a multi-day hike and had a
pack bigger than mine. We ended up walking together for a
large part of the day. Rob is a semi-retired nuclear
physicist, who spends much of his time these days hiking
long-distance trails on the continent. He told me that he
considers his average walking speed to be 6kph, a lot faster than
mine, but he slowed to help the conversation. The Path
continued to pass through alternating farmland and woodland,
climbing and then descending into lovely rural valleys and passing
through tiny villages. Beautiful country, but sweaty walking.
We stopped for lunch at 1:30pm in the only pub in the little village
of Gladestry where I ordered the Sunday roast which, for £7.50, was
an incredible feast comprising a main plate piled with roast beef,
potatoes, and Yorkshire pudding, and two smaller plates piled high
with vegetables of many descriptions. I made a valiant effort,
but couldn't quite manage the last bit of cauliflower cheese, which
Rob demolished. All the time I was downing tin after tin of
Diet Coke to rehydrate after the hot morning. I pretty much
waddled out of that pub, and didn't embrace the solid climb up onto
the 400m high Hergest Ridge, but the views from this semi-moorland
and the many ponies and new foals revived me.
We walked on to the town of Kington, where we found a small
supermarket and had some afternoon tea and more drinks before
parting company, with Rob planning to stay at a nearby campground.
Even though it was 4pm and I was tired, I needed to go further or I
would fall behind the schedule I need to keep if I'm to finish and
make my flight back home. There was another solid climb out of
Kington and it was still warm, but I made steady progress along the
path which actually went along the top of a section of the
1300-year-old Offa's Dyke that was still clearly visible, for quite
a while.
Around 7pm I began looking for somewhere to camp as the path
passed through a small wood near the crest of the hill. I
couldn't find an ideal spot and eventually climbed over a barbed
wire fence to a small patch of cleared pasture that seems unlikely
to concern anyone and set up camp. After a quick dinner of
canned rice-cream and canned peaches (note to self: get a plastic
spoon to carry) I updated my diary and retired. It really has
been a magic day, despite the heat, with extensive views across the
lush green Welsh borders countryside and lovely path to follow.
Touch wood, the feet weren't quite as bad today. Maybe there's
a light at the end of the tunnel.
|
