Dave Byrnes' Adventures

Land's End to John O'Groats - 2010

Overview     Planning     Schedule     Map     Diary     Pictures
Day: 002
Date: 4 May 2010
Start:

Near Sennen

Finish:

Carbis Bay

Daily Kilometres:

35.6

Total Kilometres:

46.2

Weather:

Mostly sunny, mild temperatures offset by a cold north wind

Accommodation:

B&B with ensuite (£36)

Nutrition:

Snickers Bars for snacks, egg and bacon sandwich and blueberry pie for brunch, sandwiches and creamed rice for dinner.

Aches:

Right knee sore (3/10), left little toe sore, very weary all over.

Pictures: Here
GPS Track: Here
Journal:

Despite camping on a slope (best spot available), exposed to a very cold strong wind and having my air mattress slide continually to the bottom of the tent, I slept pretty well.  Very happy with my new sleeping bag and tent.  I got up at 6am and, after a little too much pottering around (always happens for the first week of new ventures until everything has an optimal place), I started walking at 7am.

It turned out to be a superb day.  In fact, it's hard to believe that I will have any better on the trip.  For pretty much the whole day, I had sunny and clear weather, though a bit cold in the wind, which allowed me to enjoy the scenery to the full extent.  To the left, the clear blue ocean crashed on the rocks and occasional tiny sandy cove, while off shore was the occasional small craggy island and some "bombi's".  Below and overhead, gulls and other seabirds wheeled and cried on the currents.  Nearer, small birds twittered amongst the gorse bushes, and wildflowers of all kinds abounded.  To the right, farmland, defined by green grass and stony fences, sloped down to the top of the cliffs.  Every so often, relics of the historic tin and copper mines were passed, or some ancient stone fences or early stone farm houses and sheds.  It was truly magic.  Mostly, I had it to myself, but quite frequently met hikers coming the other way.

After I had walked for a couple of hours, I had a breakfast of a Snickers Bar and Diet Coke, then, after another couple of hours, decided to deviate a kilometre or two south of the Coast Path to the small village of Pendeen.  There were no villages actually on the path until St Ives, my target for the day, and I was weighing up whether to continue on a diet of water and Snickers Bars for the rest of the day, or get some food and drink.  I did the latter, and found a tiny cafe, peopled by about four Cornishmen a little older than myself, complaining about the weather in general and the cold wind in particular.  After a tasty brunch, I purchased some drinks to take with me and rejoined the Coastal Path.

For the second day in a row, my logistics were deficient, and I had not picked out somewhere to stay in St Ives, a large resort town cascading down some steep hills to a couple of wide sandy bays.  The problem was compounded when I did not get to the tourist office until 5:30pm and it was closed.  My guess was that most of the B&Bs I could see in the picturesque cobblestoned winding streets were well beyond my budget and I didn't want to start wandering around the hilly town looking for a hostel.  Being male, I didn't want to ask anyone directions.  I decided that I would head southeast to the next town, Carbis Bay, which I expected to be less touristy, and cheaper.  There followed a long ascent on a footpath adjacent to a busy road until, on the second attempt, I found the B&B where I am now.

Much of the trail today was difficult with rocky, and even bouldery, sections, giving the legs a real work-out, not to mention the very steep ups and downs.  I nursed my bad knee all day, though it still got sore.  It will be interesting to see what it is like tomorrow morning.  I slipped on a loose gravelly descent at one point and my left leg shot straight out in front while my right leg doubled up underneath me as I fell backwards with the weight of my rucksack (~10kg).  For a moment, I feared the worst and gradually disentangled myself to find no serious damage.  My other significant mishap for the day was accidentally emptying half a bottle of Diet Coke into the waterproof map case where I was keeping my maps and guides.  I cleaned up as best I could and hopefully won't find too many pages stuck together in the ensuing days.

It won't surprise anyone to learn that I think I overdid it today.  By the time I checked in, I was exhausted and my whole body was stiffening up.  35.6km of some of the toughest trail I am likely to encounter the whole trip was more than enough for the second day.  Then, after showering and putting on some of my very limited wardrobe, I had to walk back a kilometre in the cold wind wearing thongs/flipflops and shorts to a supermarket where I could get something for dinner.  By the time I returned I was shivering uncontrollably and have turned the heater on while I type this.  However, I'm now set up nicely to reach Porthreath tomorrow and get a full day ahead of schedule.  Not that it's a race, but it will be handy to have a day available for the unexpected.  Breakfast isn't served until 8:30am, so I will be having a sleep in.

ADVENTURE LIST

 

Round Ireland
(2016)

Hume & Hovell Walking Track
(2013)

Via Alpina
(2012)

Australian Alps Walking Track
(2011)

Land's End to John O'Groats
(2010)

Round Oz Bike Record Attempt
(2009)

Round Oz Bike Record Attempt
(2008)

Round Oz Bike Record Attempt
(2007)

Australia Tip to Top MTB
(2006)

Adelaide to Darwin MTB
(2005)

Sydney to Melbourne MTB
(2004)

Three Peaks Race
(2004)

Appalachian Trail
(1986)

Alpine Track
(1983)

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You can email Dave directly at dave@davebyrnes.com.au or subscribe to his Adventure Blogs here.

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