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Daily Journal Week 9 Week 10 Week 11 Week 12 Home
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Day: |
57 |
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Date: |
Saturday, 28 June 1986 |
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Weather: |
Hot, humid, rain in the morning. |
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AT
Miles: |
10.1 |
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Other
Miles: |
0.4 (around town) |
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AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1111.3 |
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Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1146.7 |
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Breakfast: |
Mars bar, two health bars. |
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Lunch: |
Sub, ice-cream. |
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Dinner: |
Pizza, ice-cream. |
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Aches: |
None. |
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Animals
Seen: |
Deer. |
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People
Seen: |
Trail workers, many others. |
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Journal: Got up at 5:30am after a not particularly
good night’s sleep – too hot. It was raining
a bit when I got up, but the tree was good protection and nothing was really
wet. I started walking at 6:25am after
a breakfast of a Mars Bar.
Surprisingly, I wasn’t as thirsty as I expected. I decided to head for Thelma Marks Shelter,
5½ miles away, and, if hungry, have breakfast there. It began raining quite heavily as the Trail
crossed some pleasant open fields and country roads before entering the
forest and climbing up steadily to another very rocky ridge – the notorious
Pennsylvania rocks. I reached the
Thelma Marks Shelter turn-off at 8:30am but, seeing it was ¼ mile away,
decided against going down. Had a
couple of health bars instead and a 15 minute break. The next four miles into Duncannon involved
more of the rocky ridge before a rocky descent which, at one point, gave an
excellent view over Duncannon and the Susquehanna River. It looked a bit like Hannibal on the
Missouri. On the last part of the
descent I met a crew clearing vegetation from the Trail – much
appreciated. I reached Duncannon at
10am and, after visiting the Post Office, checked into the old but quaint Doyles Hotel ($7.40 per night!). After a bath, I did my shopping and laundry
and mailed cards to Delaware Water Gap Post Office and Clio before picking up
a big “sub” for a late lunch. During
the day, Gordon, Paul and Tommy turned up and checked in, as well as Paul’s
girlfriend, Kathy, from Washington DC.
I spent the afternoon watching baseball on TV and writing letters and
diary. At 8pm, the five of us went to
a nearby pizza joint where we shared two huge pizzas. Afterwards, I got an ice-cream and returned
to the hotel lounge to watch another baseball game. At 11pm I returned to my room and finished
packing my food and then my pack. It
took longer than I expected (as always) and it was nearly 1am before I got to
bed. Slept quite well though. |
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Day: |
58 |
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Date: |
Sunday, 29 June 1986 |
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Weather: |
Hot, humid, sunny. |
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AT
Miles: |
23.1 |
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Other
Miles: |
0.4 (0.2 to AT, 0.2 store) |
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AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1134.4 |
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Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1170.2 |
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Breakfast: |
Eggs and bacon, chocolate milk,
ice-cream. |
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Lunch: |
None. |
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Dinner: |
Chicken and noodles, pop tarts. |
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Aches: |
Sore hips and feet. |
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Animals
Seen: |
Deer, squirrels, chipmunks. |
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People
Seen: |
AT trail crew (2), 16 day hikers, many
others. |
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Journal: Got up at 7:20am and went downstairs for
a nice, but small, bacon and eggs breakfast cooked by Mr Doyle himself and
eaten at the bar. At 8:20am I
collected my pack and started walking.
It was already very warm and humid and forecast to get hotter, my pack
was very heavy (6 days food and 3 full water bottles), and there was the
prospect of a tough climb up onto the ridge followed by six days rock
scrambling (the dreaded Pennsylvania section). I was a bit low and on the way out of town
decided to give Barb a call. We had a
good chat and I followed it with a quart of chocolate milk and a pint of
ice-cream. My spirits rose a little
and I crossed the mighty Susquehanna River and began the steep, though not
all that long, climb. As usual, it had
taken me a longer time to get out of town than expected and the prospect of
the planned 23 miles and a late finish did not thrill me. It took me a long time to cover the first
five miles but it was cooler on the ridge and not rocky all of the time and I
began to speed up. There were
occasional good views over the Pennsylvania farmland and, despite my heavy
load, things were OK after all. I met
a few families out day hiking. I
wasn’t exactly starved after a lot of eating yesterday so gave lunch a miss
and reached the site of the old Yellow Springs village, my goal, at about
7:40pm. It was pleasant spot and I
found a good campsite. I hastily
attended to all my chores and managed to get a cooked meal, wash, etc., in
while listening to BBC shows on National Public Radio. Not such a bad evening and I was pleased to
have covered the scheduled distance with the heavy pack. There were deer around the campsite as well
as fireflies. I got into the tent at
9:40pm and updated the diary before going to sleep at 10pm. |
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Day: |
59 |
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Date: |
Monday, 30 June 1986 |
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Weather: |
Mild, partly sunny. |
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AT
Miles: |
25.7 |
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Other
Miles: |
0.4 (0.2 spring, 0.2 campsite) |
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AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1160.1 |
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Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1196.3 |
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Breakfast: |
Muesli, health drink. |
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Lunch: |
Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar. |
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Dinner: |
Macaroni cheese, instant pudding. |
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Aches: |
Feet and back sore (chafing). |
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Animals
Seen: |
Squirrels, rabbit, groundhog. |
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People
Seen: |
AT trail crew (2), 5 overnight hikers,
many others. |
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Journal: Got up at 6am and, for some reason, took
a long time to get going. Left at
7:40am. However, I seemed to cover the
miles quickly in the first session which passed through pleasant woods and
the remains of an old mining area and the site of the Rausch Gap
settlement. After that, the AT
descended to meet a road and then followed various roads for two or three
miles – quite populated. The weight of
my pack is beginning to tell on my feet which are excessively sore and I feel
tired generally. After crossing under
the I-81 several times, the AT climbed back up onto another ridge. Some of the climb was rocky, as was the
Trail along the crest. There were some
views out across the closely farmed valley to the east. I stopped for lunch at Blue Mountain
campsite, having covered a good 18½ miles in the morning (till 2:30pm). It began spitting while I lunched. I continued on after an hour’s break with
full water bottles. My pace slowed and
I felt very tired (sore feet). There
were also some long difficult rocky stretches. It took until 7pm to reach Hertlein campsite only seven miles from lunch. Very slow and I’m a bit concerned I’m
overdoing it – 25 miles again tomorrow.
The campsite was quite nice and I had a quick dinner, etc., and got
into my tent at 9:10pm. Rain is
forecast. During the day, I remembered
I hadn’t addressed the card sent to Clio.
Tonight is one when I would rather be home. |
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Day: |
60 |
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Date: |
Tuesday, 1 July 1986 |
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Weather: |
Mild, sunny in the morning and cloudy in
the afternoon. |
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AT
Miles: |
18.5 |
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Other
Miles: |
0.1 (hotel) |
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AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1178.6 |
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Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1214.9 |
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Breakfast: |
Muesli, health drink. |
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Lunch: |
Biscuits and peanut butter. |
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Dinner: |
Salad, hamburger steak, fresh vegetables,
ice-cream. |
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Aches: |
Feet extremely sore, blister. |
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Animals
Seen: |
Rabbits, deer, grouse. |
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People
Seen: |
1 day hiker, many others. |
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Journal: Woke up at midnight with feet aching
mercilessly. They were burning too,
and I nearly got up to stand in the creek.
Dreading tomorrow. I got up at
6am and, apart from the feet, slept reasonably well. Managed to get going by 7:35am. I was not moving well and my feet were
already feeling battered as well as having sharp pain between the big and
second toes on right foot. Feared
infection and had to stop after two miles.
Fortunately, it turned out to be a big blister. I pressed on for another four miles but was
amazed how bad my feet felt so early in the day. My pack was still heavy, but more
tolerable. My intended distance for
the day was 25 miles, but I was moving so slow because of the extremely rocky
terrain and sore feet that it seemed doubtful and foolhardy to try and make
it. I decided to reduce my sessions
from four to three miles and checked the AT Log Book to find that I could
probably still make Delaware Water Gap before noon on Saturday if I stopped
the night in Port Clinton. The Trail
was basically flat along the top of a ridge through attractive woods but the
path was covered with loose and projecting sharp rocks. It was slow, tedious and risky walking. I descended into Port Clinton at about
4:40pm, found the Post Office and sent another card to Clio, then went to the
Port Clinton Hotel where I got a room, the only guest, from the amiable
Helen. She offered to cook me dinner
for an extra $3.50, so I accepted.
After a shower I had a salad, hamburger steak, fresh vegetables and
ice-cream dinner in the bar watching TV.
No other patrons.I stayed there drinking
Cokes, watching a few customers drift in, watching TV and talking to Helen
until 9pm. Decided sleep was probably
more important than baseball and my feet hurt when sitting in a chair or
stool so retired to update my diary, pack for an early start, and maybe read
a little. |
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Day: |
61 |
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Date: |
Wednesday, 2 July 1986 |
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Weather: |
Mostly cloudy, rain in the morning. |
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AT
Miles: |
24.4 |
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Other
Miles: |
0.1 (hotel) |
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AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1203.0 |
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Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1239.4 |
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Breakfast: |
Muesli. |
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Lunch: |
Biscuits and peanut butter. |
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Dinner: |
Noodles and vegetables, pop tarts. |
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Aches: |
Feet sore, right shoulder aching, lower back
chafed. |
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Animals
Seen: |
2 BEARS, ground hog, grouse, small snake. |
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People
Seen: |
2 overnight hikers, some others. |
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Journal: Got up at 6:20am and ate breakfast in my
room before leaving at 7:10am. It was a
good night’s sleep and my feet didn’t cause me to wake at all, though they
still feel battered. It had begun
raining during the night and was still raining steadily as I left. The Trail followed the Schuylkill River for
a short distance before climbing away from the picturesque Port Clinton. The Trail reached the ridge and followed
the crest. Again, there were patches
of bad rocks which slowed progress and were more treacherous when wet. The Trail passed close to some good
viewpoints – Pulpit Rock, The Pinnacle – and I got some great views over the
Pennsylvanian countryside. The Trail
descended into a valley where it passed through conifer forest which was very
pleasant. My feet, while sore, weren’t
as bad as on the other days. I had
lunch in a nice spot and then ascended back up to the ridge. Again, there were a lot of rocky sections
which slowed progress and were very tiresome.
I stopped for my last break of the afternoon at 5:30pm near Dans Spring and while sitting down looking at the map I
heard a twig snap. I loked up to find a full-grown black bear less than 15
yards away sniffing the air – it hadn’t seen me. Five yards away was a companion of similar
size. They moved off slowly into the bush foraging and I got out my camera as
quietly as possible and set off in stealthy pursuit. After about 200 yards I got a couple of
pictures and they still hadn’t seen me.
If they had seen me and were aggressive, there was nowhere I could
have gone. All very exciting. I continued on for the rocky last three
miles to the Allentown Shelter arriving at 6:50pm. Chuck, a five-day hiker, was in
residence. We chatted and got along
well while I successfully got a fire going with wet wood. Went to bed at 9:15pm. |
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Day: |
62 |
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Date: |
Thursday, 3 July 1986 |
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Weather: |
Mild, windy, sunny. |
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AT
Miles: |
25.4 |
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Other
Miles: |
0 |
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AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1228.4 |
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Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1264.8 |
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Breakfast: |
Muesli. |
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Lunch: |
Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar. |
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Dinner: |
Noodles and vegetables, instant pudding. |
|
Aches: |
Feet sore, particularly 4th
left toe. |
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Animals
Seen: |
Deer, squirrels, chipmunks, snake. |
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People
Seen: |
9 overnight hikers, 7 day hikers, many
others. |
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Journal: Got up at 6am and managed to get away by
7:15am. Chuck gave me his address near
Boston and suggested I look him up. I
set off toward Blue Mountain summit, 4 miles away, hoping I would be able to
get some water there. I only had half
a bottle and, because of the dry winter, the majority of the springs close to
the Trail were dry. There was a
restaurant at Blue Mountain, but it was closed until 11am and it was 8:30am
when I arrived. There was no outside
water tap, but I found a Pepsi vending machine and scraped together enough
change to buy two cans. This is
America – no water, but Pepsi. The
going had been relatively good and I was making good time as I pressed on
northward. The AT continued to follow
a low wooded ridge. Soon it became
very rocky and slow again (at least the rocks weren’t wet) and followed a
rocky ridge known as The Knife Edge.
It would have been good fun without a pack on! I continued to make surprisingly good time
which I attributed to the much lighter pack.
There continued to be clear views from a number of rocky knobs and
outcrops in both directions. I reached
Overbridge Shelter at 2:30pm for a late lunch. There was a dead (shot) copperhead snake in
the fireplace. The Trail then
descended to Lehigh Gap and crossed the Lehigh River on a road bridge – there
was lots of traffic around; people knocking off early for a long
weekend. The mountains around the Gap
had been denuded by pollution from the nearby zinc smelting operation. The ascent up the other side was steep and
involved clambering over barren rocks.
Good views. At the ridge top
the vegetation was still sparse. I
decided to walk until 6:30pm even though I would have passed the day’s target
(a spring). If the going was good
tomorrow, I might make it to Delaware Water Gap. At 6:30pm I found a nice little campsite by
the Trail and had a pleasant evening before retiring at 9pm. |
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Day: |
63 |
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Date: |
Friday, 4 July 1986 |
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Weather: |
Warm, sunny. |
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AT
Miles: |
23.2 |
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Other
Miles: |
0 |
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AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1251.6 |
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Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1288.0 |
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Breakfast: |
Muesli, health drink. |
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Lunch: |
Biscuits and peanut butter. |
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Dinner: |
Macaroni cheese, instant pudding. |
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Aches: |
Feet very sore, right shoulder very sore. |
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Animals
Seen: |
Chipmunks, squirrels, deer. |
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People
Seen: |
5 overnight hikers, 6 day hikers, many
others. |
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Journal: Got up at 5:30am after a good night’s
sleep and decided to attempt the 30+ miles to Delaware Water Gap. I left at 6:50am on a very pleasant morning
and headed north along the Trail through pretty woods. As usual, I collected all the cobwebs en
route. The Trail, although flat, was
very rocky and although I could maintain my three miles an hour, it required
a lot of concentration, high knee lift, and stamina. I plodded on with Wind Gap as my half-way
mark and aiming for five-mile sessions.
If it wasn’t for the rocks, it would be really pleasant walking. I just kept hoping I’d strike some more
even stretches but, unlike the other days, it was continuous and
wearing. I pressed on and reached Wind
Gap, tired but on schedule at 12:30pm.
I couldn’t see the motel supposedly there, but wandered down the road
past some houses and found a guy in his garden nailing up US flags
(INDEPENDENCE DAY!) who showed me a tap to get water. Water was again very scarce. The stretch after Wind Gap was a
killer. It was a relocation, a few
years old, and was just non-stop rocks.
I began to get very weary, my pace was slowed and, after two hours to
cover five miles, decided that after a 50 minute break for lunch I would
seriously consider stopping at Kirkridge Shelter
and walk the last six miles into Delaware Water Gap first thing in the
morning. Getting to Delaware Water Gap
around 8pm tonight wouldn’t save much time and would leave me with very sore
feet. After passing Wolf Rocks (views
OK), the Trail became a little better but. When I reached the Shelter
turn-off at 5:30pm, I decided it would be nice to stop. I walked up to the Shelter, which was in
mild disrepair (no rain forecast) and had a relaxed evening. There was a great view from the Shelter’s
front and I had hopes of seeing some fireworks as it got dark. There were lots of fireworks and I stayed
up until 10:30pm watching them from in my sleeping bag, drinking hot
chocolate and listening to patriotic music on the Sony Walkman. A very memorable evening. |
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Day: |
64 |
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Date: |
Saturday, 5 July 1986 |
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Weather: |
Hot, humid, hazy. |
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AT
Miles: |
6.5 |
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Other
Miles: |
2.0 (around town) |
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AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1258.1 |
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Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1296.5 |
|
Breakfast: |
Muesli, eggs, sausages. |
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Lunch: |
Turkey sandwich, ice-cream. |
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Dinner: |
Chicken, vegetables, ice-cream. |
|
Aches: |
Pain next to big toe on right foot. |
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Animals
Seen: |
Squirrels, chipmunks. |
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People
Seen: |
5 overnight hikers, 2 day hikers, many
others. |
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Journal: I got up at 5:30am and left at about
6:50am for the 6½ miles into Delaware Water Gap. I passed a few other campers in the first
few miles and then began descending into the Delaware Water Gap with good
views over the Delaware River and its gorge en route. It was already warm and obviously going to
be a hot day. The Trail improved as it
became one used by day hikers to get to the look-outs. Just before Delaware Water Gap it passed a
beautiful lily pond. Delaware Water
Gap turned out to be a pretty, historic, art and craft town nestled amongst
the hills. I found the Presbyterian
Church and its Hostel underneath straight away and checked it out. Very good – shower, lounge, dormitory,
radio, fridge, clean towels and nobody in residence. I went down to the Post Office and
collected my mail and met Hilda, the elderly volunteer caretaker for the
Hostel. She soon turned up at the
Hostel with a key for me to use. I
went to a café and had a second breakfast while reading my mail, including a
letter from Syntec (my former employer) offering me
an attractive three-year contract for when I returned to Australia, two
letters from Barb and one from Pam.
After breakfast, I bought groceries and returned to the Hostel. I decided against the 40 minute bus trip to
Stroudsburg and did my laundry by hand.
Back at the cool Hostel, I wrote a letter to Barb, did the laundry,
and then went to a nearby pub for lunch at 2pm. There was baseball on the TV, but the place
was noisy and smoky so I returned to the Hostel after lunch and launched into
writing a stack of postcards after ringing my cousin, Gordon, and informing
him of my impending arrival in his neighbourhood. During the evening an AT Thru-hiker and his
girlfriend turned up – they had hitched back after a week hiking north
together. We chatted a while. At 10:30pm I rang Marj, then retired at
11pm. A pleasant relaxing day. Tried to ring Barb without luck a couple of
times. |
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Day: |
65 |
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Date: |
Sunday, 6 July 1986 |
|
Weather: |
Hot, humid, hazy. |
|
AT
Miles: |
24.6 |
|
Other
Miles: |
0.2 (shelter) |
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AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1282.7 |
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Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1321.3 |
|
Breakfast: |
Eggs, toast. |
|
Lunch: |
Biscuits and peanut butter. |
|
Dinner: |
Macaroni cheese, chocolate pudding. |
|
Aches: |
Pain next to right big toe. |
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Animals
Seen: |
Deer, chipmunks, squirrels. |
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People
Seen: |
1 AT Thru-hiker, 8 overnight hikers, 8
day hikers, many others. |
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Journal: Got up at 6:30am and left the Hostel at
7:10am, saying good-bye to Steve (?) and Verna. I first went to a phone box and called Barb
who was unexpectedly home, and we had a good chat for about 20 minutes. I then walked up the road a little way to
Hilda’s cottage to return the Hostel key and she made good on her promise to
cook me breakfast. She was obviously a
talented lady – writing and painting – but seemed to be in poor health. We had a good chat while I ate and she
showed me the baby skunk she was raising – cute. I left at 8:10am and crossed the Delaware
River into New Jersey, optimistic that things were on the up despite the very
hot day forecast. I stopped at the
Visitor Centre in the Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area that Barb
and I had visited in the rain last October on our way to New York and
finished off a bottle of Pepsi I was carrying. I then set out up the Trail which was
well-travelled and easy walking for the four miles to the attractive glacial
lake, Sunfish Pond. From there, the
Trail degenerated into the same old Pennsylvania rocky Trail. The going was slow and hot. After another few hours, I reached
Rattlesnake Spring and met Jerry from Ohio who was an AT Thru-hiker and
having trouble getting going again after a four-day lay-off with his parents
and girlfriend. I was like a godsend
to him and he attached himself to me.
A likeable guy, but I hope he doesn’t plan to walk with me the whole
way to Maine. The remainder of the day
was spent trekking along a low rocky ridge in high heat and humidity with
occasional views marred by the haze.
Near the end of the day, the former blister between the big and second
toes on my right foot began to hurt a lot.
I limped in the last few miles to Brinks Road Shelter and arrived at
7:15pm. It was very hot with mozzies
around so we both erected our same tents (you can sleep with no clothes on in
the tent!). After a hurried dinner, I
got to bed at 9:00pm and spent time on my diary and re-reading letters before
lights out at 9:30pm. |
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Day: |
66 |
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Date: |
Monday, 7 July 1986 |
|
Weather: |
Very hot, humid and hazy. |
|
AT
Miles: |
19.3 |
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Other
Miles: |
0 |
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AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1302.0 |
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Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1340.6 |
|
Breakfast: |
Muesli, quart of ice-cream, quart of
orange juice, donut. |
|
Lunch: |
Biscuits and peanut butter, Mars Bar. |
|
Dinner: |
Macaroni cheese, instant pudding. |
|
Aches: |
Toes and ex-blister very sore. |
|
Animals
Seen: |
Chipmunks. |
|
People
Seen: |
8 overnight hikers, many others. |
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Journal: Got up at 6am and left at 7:30am on a day
which again promised to be very hot.
My right foot was sore and I wanted to walk slowly, so I sent a
reluctant Jerry ahead of me. I think
he’s worried I might try and give him the slip. After four miles I reached Worthington’s
Bakery, where Jerry was waiting, and supplemented breakfast with a quart of
orange juice, a quart of ice-cream, a donut and a Dr Pepper. We then headed off on a bit of road-walking
before the Trail again entered the woods and climbed to a ridge. Unfortunately, it was again rocky making it
slow progress, made worse by the heat and my sore foot. All in all I was feeling miserable. Jerry, a nice inoffensive guy, preferred me
to lead so he could keep me in his sights, which didn’t help matters – a
permanent shadow. We reached the crest
of a ridge and found an old pavilion which had stone floors and was
beautifully cool. We hung around for
an unscheduled ½ hour. The Trail then
descended for a few miles and we stopped for lunch at 1:30pm in a car park
which had a water pump – lovely icy water.
As we were about to leave, the leader of what turned out to be a
seemingly disorganised hike for pre-teen boys arrived headed south. We met the tired and waterless boys
straggled along the Trail as we headed north.
Heat and sore feet and rocky Trail compelled me to have breaks at
three miles in the afternoon and we also stopped at Highpoint State Park
Visitors Centre for water before the last two miles to Highpoint
Shelter. It was a reasonable Shelter,
but the heat and mozzies decided us both to sleep in our tents. We arrived at 6:30pm so had time for a
leisurely dinner before retiring at 9pm.
There was a thunderstorm at about 11pm, but the tent did well. |
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Day: |
67 |
|
Date: |
Tuesday, 8 July 1986 |
|
Weather: |
Hot, humid, hazy, sunny. |
|
AT
Miles: |
20.9 |
|
Other
Miles: |
0.8 (to store) |
|
AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1322.9 |
|
Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1362.3 |
|
Breakfast: |
Muesli. |
|
Lunch: |
Pizza, pint of ice-cream, quart of orange
juice. |
|
Dinner: |
Noodles and vegetables, instant pudding. |
|
Aches: |
Feet, particularly toes, very sore. |
|
Animals
Seen: |
Rabbits, groundhogs. |
|
People
Seen: |
Many. |
|
Journal: Got up at 6am, hoping to do 24 miles on
another hot day. Hoping feet
better. Jerry said he planned to do 24
miles too! We left (the shadow and I)
at 7:30am and walked steadily at first through woods then across farm and
grazing land for seven miles. I then
said I was going into Unionville (0.4 miles off the AT) in New York to get
some supplies and have a snack. Jerry
wasn’t that keen on the detour, but came anyway. After shopping, we went to the local pub
and had an early lunch of pizza (shared).
Very friendly barmaid. We left
at 12:30pm in the heat of the day with 17 miles to go. It was going to be tough. Jerry wanted to take a short-cut, but I
wouldn’t, so he didn’t either. The
Trail went through woods for a while, then across fields then a hot
road-walk. The feet were sore –
Jerry’s too. After the road-walk,
there was a solid climb over a ridge then, to our horror, a relocation which
was hard going – badly prepared – and cost us a good half hour. There was then another hot road-walk with
my feet killing me. I removed my inner
socks but that seemed to make things worse – perhaps my wool socks needed a
wash. I don’t know why the feet were
so sore, particularly the toes. Could
be from awkward walking because of exposed skin on old blister, could be the
heat, could be dirty socks, could be the rocks. We were short on water, but got some from a
house because the campsite we were aiming for was dry. We reached the end of the road-walk with
six miles to go at 5:30pm. I decided
to change my socks and told Jerry I was only going another three miles then
camping. He said he wanted to go
further, so we said friendly farewells and he was off. The last three miles involved a steep rocky
climb to Mount Wawayanda then along its crest. It was slow going and took me until 7:10pm
to reach my target campsite next to a suspect stream. Still, it was a nice spot and I was glad to
stop. If my feet are bad tomorrow, I
may try and get to Gordon’s tomorrow night and have a day off, though it will
put pressure on me to reach later deadlines.
We’ll see tomorrow. Went to bed
at 9:10pm and spent 40 minutes catching diary up. Lots of mozzies, very warm and I’m
thirsty. Had better days! That’s three toughies in a row. Record temperatures in New York. |
|
|
|
|
|
Day: |
68 |
|
Date: |
Wednesday, 9 July 1986 |
|
Weather: |
Very warm, very humid, overcast, some
showers. |
|
AT
Miles: |
24.7 |
|
Other
Miles: |
2.3 (0.6 water, 1.7 Arden) |
|
AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1347.6 |
|
Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1389.3 |
|
Breakfast: |
Muesli. |
|
Lunch: |
Biscuits and peanut butter, Mars Bar. |
|
Dinner: |
Pizza, ice-cream. |
|
Aches: |
Feet sore. |
|
Animals
Seen: |
Deer, groundhogs, small snake, squirrels,
grouse. |
|
People
Seen: |
1 day hiker, many others. |
|
Journal: Got up at 6am after a showery night. Didn’t sleep that well. Set off, still undecided whether to ring
Gordon and arrange to stay tonight and tomorrow. I walked to the side-trail to Wawayanda Visitor Center,
arriving there at 8:45am and rang Gordon to see if it would be OK. He seemed pleased, so we arranged that I
would call him from Arden, still 22 miles along the Trail. It was a very dull humid day and I set off
along the Trail hoping that my feet, particularly the right one, would be
better in the cooler weather and clean socks.
The Trail was easier on the feet with fewer rocks and flatter rocks
and I didn’t push it. Progress was not
all that quick because there seemed to be many escarpments to climb and
descend using hands and muscles. It
was quite tiring, but I just kept plugging away and enjoyed the change in
terrain. In some places, the Trail was
along the top of long stretches of exposed rock which gave good views over
the nearby lakes. It was obviously a
populated area with the sounds of civilization evident and several roads to
cross. I had a late lunch at about
4:10pm and then pressed on non-stop for the last 6½ miles to NY17 near
Arden. More escarpments and progress
was slow. I arrived at the road at 8pm
to find the telephone I had been counting on vandalized. Very tired and not happy, I walked another
mile to the small Post Office at Arden along the railway line to where there
was supposed to be another phone. If
there was, it was inside and locked. I
walked to NY17 and began to hitch south at 8:30pm. It was getting dark and I realised I may as
well start walking to the next town, 2½ miles away since no-one in New York
was going to pick me up after dark. After
a mile, I got a lift from a shift worker to Sloatsburg, about 12 miles down
the road, arriving at 9:15pm. I rang
Gordon and then ate a pizza sitting on the footpath watching the world go by
while Gordon made the long trip out to get me. It was quite pleasant sitting there with
the prospect of a day off. Gordon
arrived while I was buying some ice-cream and drink and we drove back to his
house at Sparkill arriving at 10:30pm. It was great to see Gordon and Pam again,
and Aidan soon woke up and joined in the fun.
We stayed up talking till about 1am and then I went to sleep in Aidan’s
room. |
|
|
|
|
|
Day: |
69 |
|
Date: |
Thursday, 10 July 1986 |
|
Weather: |
Warm, sunny. |
|
AT
Miles: |
0 |
|
Other
Miles: |
0 |
|
AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1347.6 |
|
Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1389.3 |
|
Breakfast: |
Cereal, muffins. |
|
Lunch: |
Salad rolls, muffins. |
|
Dinner: |
Roast lamb, vegetables, ice-cream, jelly. |
|
Aches: |
Feet stiff and sore. |
|
Animals
Seen: |
0 |
|
People
Seen: |
Many. |
|
Journal: Got up at 8am and called Clio to see if
she wanted to come out to the AT. No
conclusion was reached so I left it that I would call again on Saturday. After breakfast, I spent the morning doing
washing and cleaning, updating my diary, trip-planning and playing with the
good-natured Aidan. Gordon came home
for lunch and a friend, Celia, and her two children came as well. A few hours passed chatting and the
afternoon went quickly too, as I drafted my reply to Syntec,
watched TV and played with Aidan.
After an early dinner, Bo Cocks rang from Australia to say they would
be in Maine from August 19 and would like to see me (Bo, the American wife of
an Australian work colleague, was the person who had first sparked my
interest in the AT). We worked out
some means of contact. It would be
good to see them, but I might almost be finished by August 19th. Pam then took me to the supermarket and I
did my shopping. On return we all
watched TV and talked. I went to bed
at midnight. It was a very restful day
and I feel it has done my feet some good. |
|
|
|
|
|
Day: |
70 |
|
Date: |
Friday, 11 July 1986 |
|
Weather: |
Warm, humid, mostly cloudy. |
|
AT
Miles: |
13.9 |
|
Other
Miles: |
0 |
|
AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1361.5 |
|
Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1403.2 |
|
Breakfast: |
Cereal, eggs, toast. |
|
Lunch: |
Biscuits and peanut butter. |
|
Dinner: |
Macaroni cheese, instant pudding. |
|
Aches: |
Feet a bit sore, right knee sore. |
|
Animals
Seen: |
Many deer, 2 fawns, squirrels, chipmunks,
small snake, grouse. |
|
People
Seen: |
18 overnight hikers, 1 day hiker, many
others. |
|
Journal: Got up at 8am and, after a shower and
Pam-cooked breakfast, said good-bye to Pam and Aidan and left with Gordon at
9:20am. It was sad to be leaving so
soon. Another day off would have been
nice and I think nthey would have liked me to
stay. Anyway, it’s good to know
they’ll be moving to Melbourne to live next March. Gordon drove me to the spot near Arden at
the entrance to Harriman State Park where I left the AT on Wednesday
night. I started walking at 10:15am on
a much more pleasant (cooler) day than recently. That, plus my feet feeling improved and a
day’s rest, had me in good spirits as I negotiated the gentle grades and
occasional rocky bluffs of the Park.
There was little undergrowth and spring-like growth on the trees as
well as evidence of gypsy moth. It was
pleasant forest. I only planned to do
12 miles so that tomorrow night I would arrive at Graymoor
Monastery. I stopped for lunch at 1pm
then pressed on to the William Brian Shelter, where I planned to spend the
night, arriving at 4:30pm. Unfortunately,
the water well was dry and I had little, , so ended up pressing on another
few miles and stopping by a pleasant stream in a lovely spot at about
6:10pm. En route, the Trail passed
over Black Mountain and I got superb views of the Hudson River which I will
cross tomorrow – a landmark. I had
time for a leisurely dinner though time was spent boiling suspect water for
tomorrow’s breakfast. I went to bed
soon after 9pm after a relaxing day. |
|
|
|
|
|
Day: |
71 |
|
Date: |
Saturday, 12 July 1986. |
|
Weather: |
Mild, overcast, raining mostly. |
|
AT
Miles: |
13.7 |
|
Other
Miles: |
1.8 (1.5 to café, 0.3 to Monastery) |
|
AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1374.4 |
|
Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1418.7 |
|
Breakfast: |
Muesli. |
|
Lunch: |
2 cheeseburgers, fries. |
|
Dinner: |
Hamburgers, salad, fruit. |
|
Aches: |
Right knee sore. |
|
Animals
Seen: |
Deer (including fawns), squirrels,
chipmunks. |
|
People
Seen: |
2 AT Thru-hikers, many others. |
|
Journal: Got up at 6am after some showers during
the night and almost immediately it began to rain steadily. I ate breakfast
and packed up in the rain keeping things as dry as I could. A few things got damp but nothing too bad. It was the first tent pack up in the rain,
so I suppose I have been lucky. I set
off along the muddy path (in some cases “river”) and steadily walked the six
miles to Bear Mountain Inn passing over West Mountain and Bear Mountain en
route. No views because of the
weather. I arrived at the Inn at
10:10am to find the café, where I had planned to spend a few hours,
closed. I found a covered area in
front of the toilets and spent 1½ hours writing my reply to Syntec’s job offer standing up at a wall and getting
colder and colder. Shivering, by the
end. I then walked, in the rain, up to
the Post Office which was closed, then back to the now-open café where I had
some lunch. It was a big place, filled
mostly with blacks whose picnics had been spoiled by the rain. They were noisy and happy. After lunch, I went to the Inn lobby and
left the Syntec letter with them. I also called Clio, but she couldn’t give
me a time when she could meet up, but wanted me to call back tomorrow. She said she could perhaps make it Monday
night. I’ll probably ring her, though
I’ve a few long days ahead of me. I
left the Inn at 1:10pm and walked through the picnic area and zoo (foxes,
bears, raccoons) en route to the Bear Mountain Bridge which I used to cross
the big Hudson River. We had driven
across it with Rod and Tracey just three months ago – seemed ages. The rain had more or less stopped as I
climbed up to the ridges on the north-east side – a landmark passed. The Trail was reasonable, the weather cool,
and I was in good spirits walking along, singing with my Walkman, and a short
afternoon in prospect. I arrived at Graymoors Franciscan Monastery at 4:30pm and was met by
the kindly Father Bosco who arranged a room for
me. I had a shower and went down to
dinner at 5:30pm where I met Bob and Jennifer, also AT Thru-hikers, who’d
spent the day there because of rain.
Jennifer was walking around the Monastery in short shorts which I’m
sure would have been a little distracting to the monks. They told me about their encounter with the
psycho “Fighter Pilot” on the Trail who had threatened to kill them and had
harassed them for a few days in New Jersey.
Glad I missed him. After an
ample dinner, I went to my room and wrote a letter before going down to a
small lounge to watch TV. At 9pm I
found a Michael Douglas movie called “Running” which was interesting but
far-fetched. |
|
|
|
|
|
Day: |
72 |
|
Date: |
Sunday, 13 July 1986. |
|
Weather: |
Foggy, rain and drizzle, mild. |
|
AT
Miles: |
18.8 |
|
Other
Miles: |
0.3 (from Graymoors). |
|
AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1393.2 |
|
Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1437.8 |
|
Breakfast: |
Fruit, eggs and sausages, orange juice,
donuts. |
|
Lunch: |
None. |
|
Dinner: |
Biscuits and peanut butter, instant
pudding. |
|
Aches: |
None bad. |
|
Animals
Seen: |
Deer, squirrels, groundhogs, rabbits. |
|
People
Seen: |
2 day hikers, some others. |
|
Journal: Got up at 7:30am and, after a pleasant
breakfast with the monks and Bob and Jenny, left Graymoors
at 9am. An interesting and worthwhile
visit. The weather was poor, fog and
drizzle, and I altered my schedule for the next three days so I could stay in
Shelters. This meant an easy day today
and a long one tomorrow. I decided not
to try and ring Clio from the Monastery because it was probably too early for
her to know if she was going sailing or not.
I set off with a bit of indigestion from the enormous breakfast I had
eaten. It was drizzling, but not
enough to warrant donning my Goretex jacket. My feet were wet from yesterday’s socks and
wet shoes and soon got wetter as I walked through sopping undergrowth. Despite the wetness it was pleasant walking
in the mild weather. There were a few
climbs, occasionally steep, but never that long, and no views because of the
fog. The area, as for the last few
days, was historic with traces of farming, mining, etc., dating from the
American Revolution. There were lots
of collapsed stone fences and the Trail occasionally followed old railway
grades. You could feel the history of
the place. The miles all seemed a
little long, but I was doing it easy and, partly because of the indigestion,
decided to forgo lunch (eating my perennial trail snack, “gorp”
[sultanas, peanuts and M&Ms], instead), and reach my goal, Ralph’s Peak
Hikers Cabin, a little earlier. There
was supposed to be a bike there, and a store a mile away, and I would have a
big dinner there. After climbing over
Shenandoah, I descended to the well-marked cabin and arrived at 5:30pm. A note on the door said someone would open
it at 6pm. I sat and started the diary
and a very friendly guy from the Club turned up at 5:50pm. He told me the store was closed and there
was nowhere to cook so I accepted that I was going to have a cold dinner but
wasn’t too bothered. The Cabin was
well-furnished and promised to be cosy.
Soon after 6pm, thunder sounded and it began to rain heavily. I was glad I hadn’t stopped for lunch. I had a cold dinner and wrote the diary by
candlelight. |
|
|
|
|
|
Day: |
73 |
|
Date: |
Monday, 14 July 1986 |
|
Weather: |
Warm, partly cloudy. |
|
AT
Miles: |
26.8 |
|
Other
Miles: |
0.2 (spring). |
|
AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1420.0 |
|
Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1464.8 |
|
Breakfast: |
Muesli, health drink. |
|
Lunch: |
Tuna salad roll, donuts, ice-cream. |
|
Dinner: |
Broccoli soup, stuffed cabbage,
ice-cream. |
|
Aches: |
4th toe on left foot sore and
right lower back. |
|
Animals
Seen: |
Deer, groundhogs, squirrels, chipmunks. |
|
People
Seen: |
2 AT Thru-hikers, 2 AT Hikers (southbound
by sections), 4 overnight hikers, many others. |
|
Journal: Got up at 5:30am and left at 7am on a
beautiful sunny morning with a big day ahead.
Everything was wet from rain and it was cool in the forest though
promising to warm up. The Trail was
fairly easy going through the forest following ridges. After nine miles (some of which seemed a
bit long), I reached Morgan Stewart Shelter and met “Timber Jack” and
“Professional Radical” (Carol) together with two young couples who I think
they were travelling with for two days.
They were only having breakfast, having had a late rowdy night. They were very friendly and I’ll probably
see them again after my planned day off at Jayne’s. I left and moved on 4½ miles to NY 55 where
there was a large grocery. I didn’t
need any provisions, but went in to get some lunch and came out with a big
tuna salad “hero” (roll), two donuts, a pint of ice-cream, a pint of
chocolate milk and a can of Coke, all of which I consumed sitting on the
pavement watching the world go by – one of my favourite occupations. At 2pm, I set off for NY 22, 7½ miles
away. The first 3½ were quite pleasant
road-walking (as had the last 1½ miles to NY 55). Apparently the National Parks Service have
purchased an old nuclear reactor site nearby (where there had been an
accident) to re-route the Trail, but there was local opposition to that and
the compulsory acquisition of other necessary land. After the road, the Trail again went
through nice forest and across some attractive farmland before reaching NY 22
and the Quality Ridge Inn. I reached
there at 4:45pm, and dinner wasn’t served until 5:30pm but, with 6 miles to
go to the Shelter, I thought I could afford the time. I spent a pleasant 1½ hours sitting at the
bar, drinking Coke, talking, eating and watching TV. Before leaving, I called Jayne and confirmed
a 6:30pm pick-up at Cornwall Bridge tomorrow night. The six miles passed relatively easily (my
feet are in much better shape) and I arrived at Wiley Shelter at 8:30pm. A southbound by sections AT Hiker was in
residence and possibly asleep. I set up camp, had a wash and retired at 9pm,
updating the diary by torchlight before going to sleep. |
|
|
|
|
|
Day: |
74 |
|
Date: |
Tuesday, 15 July 1986 |
|
Weather: |
Very warm, sunny. |
|
AT
Miles: |
23.9 |
|
Other
Miles: |
0 |
|
AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1443.9 |
|
Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1488.7 |
|
Breakfast: |
Muesli, health drink. |
|
Lunch: |
Biscuits and peanut butter, Mars Bar. |
|
Dinner: |
Cottage pie, vegetables, ice-cream and
fruit. |
|
Aches: |
Toes sore. |
|
Animals
Seen: |
Deer, snake, chipmunks. |
|
People
Seen: |
AT trail crew, 2 AT Hikers (southbound,
by sections), 9 overnight hikers, 2 day hikers, many others. |
|
Journal: Got up at 5:30am and left at 7am with the
Shelter’s other resident still in bed – he told me the night before he was an
early riser. I’d disturbed him at both
ends of the night! It was a beautiful
morning and after a mile I passed into Connecticut. The Trail passed through
some farmland and climbed a short sharp mountain which tired me. It then descended and crossed a bridge over
10 Mile River, a beautiful spot, and followed the Housatonic River through
beautiful conifer forest. The Trail
reached a road and I met a Connecticut Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) trail
crew who were about to resume work on a relocation. We chatted for a while. There was then a 2½ mile road-walk before a
couple of tough hills with views from the tops over the lovely Housatonic
Valley. The hills were wearing me out
and I was a bit worried that I’m losing condition. It also meant that I was losing time on the
way to meet Jayne at Cornwall Bridge.
Just before lunch, I met a couple of south-bounder AT Hikers in
company with an AMC ridge-runner – a hiker paid by the AMC to monitor the
Trail. I had lunch on a rock ledge
giving a magnificent view before making a steep descent to the river. The Trail then more or less followed the
river on a level path upstream to Cornwall Bridge. I arrived there at 6:10pm and was met by
Jayne and her mother-in-law. We then
drove back to their house at Granby, about an hour’s drive. We stopped at a supermarket and I shopped
for the next few days. On arrival I
met Jayne’s father-in-law. Both in
mid-70s. We had a good dinner of
cottage pie. I rang my cousin Peter in
Boston and he said he still hoped to hike with me for a few days. I said I would ring back tomorrow night
with some suggestions. I couldn’t get
in touch with John Cederholm, a Boston friend who also had expressed interest
in joining me for a few days on the Trail.
After dinner, I watched TV and chatted with Jayne and her
in-laws. Went to bed at 11:30pm, but
had trouble sleeping after a bit of trip planning. |
|
|
|
|
|
Day: |
75 |
|
Date: |
Wednesday, 16 July 1986 |
|
Weather: |
Very warm, sunny. |
|
AT
Miles: |
0 |
|
Other
Miles: |
0 |
|
AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1443.9 |
|
Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1488.7 |
|
Breakfast: |
Porridge, scrambled eggs, orange juice. |
|
Lunch: |
Cottage pie, ice-cream. |
|
Dinner: |
? |
|
Aches: |
None. |
|
Animals
Seen: |
None. |
|
People
Seen: |
Some. |
|
Journal: Got up at 7:45am after a poor night’s
sleep and tried to ring John Cederholm again.
No answer. Tried to ring
Barb. No answer. I then spent another
45 minutes working on my itinerary then tried calling John at work. He’s on holiday till next Monday. Then rang Barb and talked for a while. We decided she would book me a flight from
Boston to Melbourne to arrive on September 1st I also gave her some proposed meeting
places and dates to give Bo. She
sounded though she’ll be glad when I get home. After cooking myself breakfast (Jayne was
out), I spent the morning planning, washing and drying out damp gear. Jayne returned at 11am and then left at 1pm
to take her in-laws to Boston to fly home and collect her parents. I spent the afternoon eating, watching TV
and doing chores. I then cooked my own
dinner as Jayne wasn’t expected back until 9:30pm. After dinner, I finished chores and packed
up ready for tomorrow’s departure.
Jayne arrived home at 9:40pm and I spent a few hours talking to her
jet-lagged parents and watching TV before going to bed at midnight. |
|
|
|
|
|
Day: |
76 |
|
Date: |
Thursday, 17 July 1986 |
|
Weather: |
Very warm, humid, overcast. |
|
AT
Miles: |
20.7 |
|
Other
Miles: |
0 |
|
AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1464.6 |
|
Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1509.4 |
|
Breakfast: |
Toast and jam, ice-cream. |
|
Lunch: |
Biscuits and peanut butter, Snickers Bar. |
|
Dinner: |
Snickers Bar, instant pudding. |
|
Aches: |
Right foot blister again, hips chafed. |
|
Animals
Seen: |
Chipmunks, small snake. |
|
People
Seen: |
2 day hikers, many others. |
|
Journal: Got up at 8am and had some breakfast with
Jayne and her parents. We took our
time and left at 9:45am to drive me back to Cornwall Bridge from Granby. We arrived at 11am and, after going to the
Post Office, I bought some ice-cream and chocolate milk before moving off on
a warm humid day with approximately 20 miles to go to my target
campsite. No fires allowed in
Connecticut, so I knew I would be eating cold for dinner and hence could
arrive late. The Trail started by
following a lane up to the crest of a ridge and then, for the rest of the
day, was fairly easy going through pretty forest – some deciduous, some
conifer, with a pine needle-covered floor.
Occasionally, there was some nice road-walking and, though there was
pretty scenery, there were only a few views.
It was very pleasant except for the mosquitoes – I’m afraid I’m going
to run out of repellent. I had lunch
at 3pm in a picnic area en route and then walked approximately 12 miles to
Deans Ravine, one of the designated camp areas, where I arrived at
8:15pm. It was already getting dark as
I hurriedly collected and purified water from the stream which flowed through
the beautiful valley, ate a skimpy dinner, put up my tent and tarpaulin (40%
chance of rain), and had a wash before getting into bed at 9:30pm. Updated diary and went to sleep at
10pm. A bit worried that the old
blister between my right big toe and second toe is sore again. Spent a lot of the day pre-occupied with
reaching the end, having decided the likely completion date will be August 21st
and having spent a day at Jayne’s and seeing all the comforts I’m forgoing
was unsettling. I think I was lucky
the Trail wasn’t harder today. |
|
|
|
|
|
Day: |
77 |
|
Date: |
Friday, 18 July 1986 |
|
Weather: |
Very warm, humid, partly cloudy. |
|
AT
Miles: |
23.3 |
|
Other
Miles: |
0.4 (0.2 to spring, 0.2 to Shelter) |
|
AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1487.9 |
|
Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1533.1 |
|
Breakfast: |
Omelette, sausages, fries, orange juice,
ice-cream. |
|
Lunch: |
Biscuits and peanut butter, candy bar. |
|
Dinner: |
Noodles and vegetables, instant pudding. |
|
Aches: |
Right foot, chafing. |
|
Animals
Seen: |
2 small snakes, deer, grouse, chipmunks,
squirrels. |
|
People
Seen: |
5 AT-Thru-hikers (1 by sections), 2 day
hikers, many others. |
|
Journal: Got up at 6:30am to give myself eight
hours sleep and packed up and left by 7:30am without breakfast because there
was a diner just up the Trail.
Although only two miles, it included a tough climb over Barrack
Mountain. At the diner, I had a large
breakfast before setting off for the remainder of what promised to be a hot
humid day. Initially, there was a fair
bit of road-walking as the Trail crossed back to the west bank of the
Housatonic. As usual, I didn’t really
mind the road-walk since I made better time and there were things to look at
along the way. After the road, the
Trail began climbing into the mountains and progress slowed. It was nice scenery in the forest, but
marred by the hot humid weather which left me constantly sweating, and the
bugs, especially mozzies, which tormented me.
The sweat was washing off the repellent and I began to wonder if I would
run out. Life wasn’t very
pleasant. To top it off, the old
blister next to the right big toe was hurting again and causing me to walk
awkwardly. The views from the
mountains were reduced by the heavy haze.
I stopped for a late lunch at Sage’s Ravine, a beautiful shady
glen. After that I pushed on another
seven miles of slow progress over two mountains (Race and Everett) passing en
route AT Thru-hikers, Stan and Linda Brooks, who were camped by the Trail. A Connecticut AMC ridge-runner at Sage’s Ravine
had told me of a new Shelter, Glenbrook, which was my target. I eventually arrived there at 7:10pm to
find already in residence “The Man Who Dares”, “Appalachian Al”, and Roy (all
northbound, Roy by sections). They
were really nice guys and we had a good chat.
I was amused by “The Man Who Dares” wearing pyjamas (and slippers) to
bed, and apparently being accompanied much of the time by his father in a
Recreation Vehicle. I went to bed at
9pm, a little worried about the warm night and bugs. |
|
|
|
|
|
Day: |
78 |
|
Date: |
Saturday, 19 July 1986. |
|
Weather: |
Very warm, very humid, hazy. |
|
AT
Miles: |
21.4 |
|
Other
Miles: |
0.4 (0.2 Shelter, 0.2 spring) |
|
AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1509.3 |
|
Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1554.9 |
|
Breakfast: |
Muesli, health drink. |
|
Lunch: |
Biscuits and peanut butter, chocolate
bar. |
|
Dinner: |
Fettucine, instant
pudding. |
|
Aches: |
Foot problems, bad chafing all over. |
|
Animals
Seen: |
Deer, small snake. |
|
People
Seen: |
12 overnight hikers, 7 day hikers, many
others. |
|
Journal: I woke up at 5am, when the others began
stirring, and got up at 5:30am after a bad night’s sleep. I resolved to sleep in my tent on future
warm nights. Chafing was also hurting a
lot. I left at 7am on what I hoped
would be an easy day of about 21 miles with no big hills. However, it was going to be another triple
H day, which would make it unpleasant.
The first four miles were slow going over, and down, Jug End to a road
where I replenished my water at a spring.
While resting, two joggers went past (I wish I was just out for a jog)
and some pre-breakfast walkers. My
mind was much pre-occupied with how much further I had to go all day. It will be nice to finish. There were some fields to be crossed and a
mozzie-infested forest before a fairly long road-walk. After the road-walk, there was another
mountain to go over. Sweat was pouring
off me and my chafing was getting very bad despite heaps of Vaseline. There followed another brief road-walk, at
the end of which I had lunch at about 2:30pm leaning against a lamp-post on a
quiet lane. Very pleasant and I nearly
went to sleep. The final six miles involved
negotiating another sweaty mountain to reach the Mount Wilcox North Shelter
where I arrived at 6pm. The mozzies
were bad, so I had a wash in the adjacent pond and donned long pants and
shirt for protection before cooking dinner and erecting my tent. Too many mozzies to sleep in the
Shelter. AMC ridge-runner, Liz, and
boyfriend, Matt, arrived during dinner and we chatted while we ate. Matt had not been hiking overnight before,
and Liz spent a lot of time explaining to him the rules of “leave no trace”
camping, including not washing clothes in water sources (which I had clearly
done, as my clothes were hanging out to dry near the stream) and going to the
loo well away from water sources and the camp area. I got into bed at 8:30pm (mozzies getting
bad) and did my diary before going to sleep at 9pm. During the night, I was woken by
shouting. Matt had gone to the loo and
got lost in the dark. He only found
his way back after wandering around for a long time then resorting to
shouting for help. Eventually, he woke
Liz and me and Liz shouted in reply directing him back to camp. It was all a bit sad – both were very
upset. |
|
|
|
|
|
Day: |
79 |
|
Date: |
Sunday, 20 July 1986. |
|
Weather: |
Warm, humid, overcast. |
|
AT
Miles: |
25.5 |
|
Other
Miles: |
0 |
|
AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1534.8 |
|
Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1580.4 |
|
Breakfast: |
Muesli, health drink. |
|
Lunch: |
Biscuits and peanut butter, chocolate
bar. |
|
Dinner: |
Fettucine, pop tarts. |
|
Aches: |
None that are very bad. |
|
Animals
Seen: |
Chipmunks. |
|
People
Seen: |
1 AT Thru-hiker, 1 overnight hiker, 4 day
hikers, some others. |
|
Journal: I got up at 5:30am to find all my clothes
still wet from the wash I had given them the previous night (to try and
reduce chafing), but I put them on anyway.
I left at 7:10am after exchanging addresses with Liz. Both she and Matt were a bit sheepish after
the night’s excitement. I hoped to
cover a lot of miles and fortunately it was cool early and there was a lot of
road-walking. My pack was starting to
feel lighter too. The road-walk took
me along some lovely country lanes past some beautiful mansions set amongst
the hills (The Berkshires) with manicured lawns and reflecting ponds. I passed through the attractive little
village of Tyringham, then climbed up onto another ridge along roads and
forest roads which made the going quicker.
The Trail passed the attractive Goose Pond, then Upper Goose
Pond. It was still very muggy and
mozzies were about, but the heavy overcast reduced the heat a little. While walking, I listened on my Walkman to
a live broadcast of an outdoor concert by the Boston Symphony Orchestra from
their summer home at Tanglewood, only a few miles
away as the crow flies. It was great
listening to Wagner’s Ride of the Valkyries as I
strode through the forest along the ridge, knowing it was being performed
nearby. At about 3pm, I overtook
“Jeannie the Bag Lady” and saw her again when I stopped at October Mountain
Lean-To for a very late lunch. The feet seemed to be standing the strain
better today, despite having to carry four full water bottles because of the
lack of good water – there were plenty of bogs. The clouds were looking ominous from about
6pm, but I pushed on to 6:45pm, when I found a nice campsite, having achieved
my mileage target. I set up the tarp
over the tent in preparation for rain that didn’t come, had dinner and
adjourned to the tent at 8:30pm. |
|
|
|
|
|
Day: |
80 |
|
Date: |
Monday, 21 July 1986. |
|
Weather: |
Warm, humid, sunny. |
|
AT
Miles: |
21.7 |
|
Other
Miles: |
0 |
|
AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1556.5 |
|
Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1602.1 |
|
Breakfast: |
Muesli, health drink. |
|
Lunch: |
“Sub”, ice-cream. |
|
Dinner: |
Soup, macaroni cheese, strawberry
shortcake. |
|
Aches: |
None bad. |
|
Animals
Seen: |
Squirrels, rabbits. |
|
People
Seen: |
2 AT Thru-hikers, ~ 20 day hikers, many
others. |
|
Journal: Got up at 5:30am after there had only
been a few brief showers overnight, and everything was reasonably dry. I left soon after 7am with the intention of
walking to Cheshire, 14 miles away, in three sessions with short breaks
between. My pack was light and,
although it was still humid, I made good time. I reached Dalton after 4½ miles, including
a couple of miles road-walking and, while passing through the town, found a
grocery by the Trail so stopped for a quart of orange juice and a pint of
ice-cream before continuing on. As I
left town, I passed two AT Thru-hikers, Evelyn and Wayne, returning to the
Trail after four days off. I exchanged
pleasantries and continued on. The
Trail climbed out of town up to a bumpy ridge. Much of it was new and therefore
tiring. It passed by a pretty pond and
one good viewpoint and was quite boggy in parts. I decided to ring Jayne and recommend her
parents go for their planned hike elsewhere.
I arrived at Cheshire Post Office at 12:20pm and collected a good swag
of mail, including a mysterious box which turned out to contain my fold-up
knapsack that I’d lost somewhere.
“GEOKA” had found it and mailed it to a Post Office up the Trail. It had been forwarded twice and caught me
in the end. Pleased. I walked through the town and found a
supermarket where I bought a “sub” for lunch, as well as ice-cream, and then
sat in a chair outside and ate and read my letters. Very pleasant. At about 2pm, I set out to walk the eight
miles up Mount Greylock (3500’) to the AMC’s Bascom Lodge, where I planned to spend the night. I’d rung up and booked already. Despite the uphill climb, a light pack made
for good time and I arrived at 5:10pm.
There were excellent views in most directions from the peak and it was
a beautiful evening. I got my room,
showered, and came down for 6pm dinner.
Unfortunately, it was pasta! We
all sat at a long table and I chatted with other guests and AMC workers. One gril had just
been to Australia. After dinner, I
wrote letters to Barb and Alan, phoned Jayne and tried to phone John C. I went to bed at 10:15pm and spent 45
minutes reading the Syntec (former employer) and
Kew Camberwell District (athletic club) newletters
and Pete’s Australian newspaper clippings (including weather forecasts!) I
had received in the mail so I wouldn’t have to carry them tomorrow. |
|
|
|
|
|
Day: |
81 |
|
Date: |
Tuesday, 22 July 1986 |
|
Weather: |
Very warm, sunny, moderately humid. |
|
AT
Miles: |
16.1 |
|
Other
Miles: |
1.0 (to laundry and supermarket) |
|
AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1572.6 |
|
Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1619.2 |
|
Breakfast: |
Porridge, scrambled eggs. |
|
Lunch: |
Burgers, fries, donuts. |
|
Dinner: |
Fettucine, instant
pudding. |
|
Aches: |
Right little toe extremely sore. |
|
Animals
Seen: |
Chipmunks. |
|
People
Seen: |
1 day hiker, many others. |
|
Journal: Got up at 7am and was still undecided
whether to try and ring Barb or not.
Had breakfast at the long table again and decided to ring, which I did
at 8am. Found out I’m booked to fly
out on August 30th, arriving in Melbourne on September 1st. I finished packing and left at 9am with the
plan of hiking down to North Adams, seven miles away, to do laundry and
shopping. Outside the Lodge, I met the
two AT Thru-hikers from yesterday again.
The trip down the mountain was hard on the feet but provided some good
views and pleasant walking on a perfect day.
I had to walk ½ a mile off the Trail to the laundry and supermarket,
and left my laundry going and pack there while I did my shopping. I returned to the laundry and repacked my
groceries while the laundry dried.
After that, I walked down to a hamburger joint and had lunch. Met the two AT Thru-hikers again, and
chatted while eating. I left at 1:45pm
with 14½ miles to go to my planned Shelter, which meant I would be late. As the Trail climbed up into the mountains,
my little toe on right foot began hurting a bit. I reached the Vermont border with the pain
becoming severe for no apparent reason.
There didn’t seem to be a blister.
I tried a few things and continued walking, but painfully and with a
limp. I decided that I would have to
stop around 7pm and get my shoes off.
I filled my water bottles at a spring and found a small campsite near
a beaver pond and stopped at 6:50pm.
The fire was slow and I didn’t get into the tent until 9:10pm. I was short by 4½ miles of my target and
desperately hoping the toe would be better tomorrow, otherwise I would fall
further behind. I hope it’s not an
infection. |
|
|
|
|
|
Day: |
82 |
|
Date: |
Wednesday, 23 July 1986 |
|
Weather: |
Very warm, sunny. |
|
AT
Miles: |
23.2 |
|
Other
Miles: |
0 |
|
AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1595.8 |
|
Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1642.4 |
|
Breakfast: |
Muesli, health drink. |
|
Lunch: |
Biscuits and peanut, health bar. |
|
Dinner: |
Macaroni cheese, instant pudding. |
|
Aches: |
Right little toe and right foot sore. |
|
Animals
Seen: |
Porcupine. |
|
People
Seen: |
4 overnight hikers, 5 day hikers, some
others. |
|
Journal: To give myself eight hours sleep, I
waited till 6am to get up then took longer than usual to leave because I
still had to repack my muesli and gorp. I left just before 8am and set out on a
beautiful day, even a little cool at the start. The Trail was fairly easy walking and I
made good time despite my right little toe still hurting a lot and placing a
lot of strain on my right foot as a whole.
There was a steep rocky descent from Harmon Hill to VT 9 where I took
my morning break next to a stream. As
I set out up the mountain on the other side, I met a little man with paint
brush and pail who was putting the blaze marks on trees for the Trail. The climb was steady but, for some reason,
I was in better spirits today and it didn’t bother me and I still made good
progress despite limping. I had a late
lunch at 3pm with only a little over six miles to go to my target
Shelter. It had warmed up, but was
still quite pleasant walking in the forest – I guess a bit of altitude
helped. At the top of Glastonbury
Mountain (3750’), I climbed the old fire tower which gave absolutely superb
views in every direction. Lots of mountains and the Green Mountains National
Forest. It was great. It was then a fairly rocky descent to Kid
Gore Shelter where I arrived at 6:50pm.
Had it to myself. A porcupine
visited after dinner. Decided to sleep
without the tent – nowhere to pitch it – and hope the bugs aren’t too
bad. Went to bed at about 9pm. Not a bad day. |
|
|
|
|
|
Day: |
83 |
|
Date: |
Thursday, 24 July 1986 |
|
Weather: |
Very warm, humid, sunny. |
|
AT
Miles: |
24.0 |
|
Other
Miles: |
0.3 (shelters) |
|
AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1619.8 |
|
Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1666.7 |
|
Breakfast: |
Muesli, health drink. |
|
Lunch: |
Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar. |
|
Dinner: |
Fettucine, instant
pudding. |
|
Aches: |
Right foot sore, right back chafed. |
|
Animals
Seen: |
Chipmunks. |
|
People
Seen: |
10 overnight hikers, 4 day hikers. |
|
Journal: Got up at 5:30am after a disturbed
night. Woke at 11pm first because I
was too hot, so applied insect repellent to legs and opened out my sleeping
bag. The woken at 3pm by a porcupine
chewing on the Shelter. It left when I
shone the torch on it. I realised then
that the rocks I had seen lined up along the inside walls of the Shelter were
for throwing at porcupines! I left at
7:10am and passed the nearby Caughnawaga Shelter
where it looked like a single female was in residence (bathing suit hanging
up) but she was nowhere to be seen. I
continued on quite a warm morning but nice in the green forest. My right little toe was still sore so, at
my first break, I changed into my spare New Balance running shoes. They were an improvement, though made my
feet hot. I made good time to the
attractive Stratton Pond and had my morning break there. Couldn’t be bothered going for a swim. Continued on along the reasonable Trail
through pretty woodland. Feeling a bit
tired and thinking a lot about finishing.
Passed a girl doing trail maintenance then a group of young hikers and
their leaders just before I reached Spruce Peak Shelter where I had a late
lunch at 3pm. The group turned up to
stay for the night and I chatted to a few of them while eating and
resting. I set off at 4pm to cover the
remaining six miles to Mad Tom Shelter which included a solid climb up the
3260’ Bromley Mountain. Because of the
humidity, it was hazy and the views were nowhere near as good as yesterday. Another mile brought me to the Shelter. The spring was almost dry, but I decided to
stay and boil water. The Shelter faced
west and I had a fine view of the sun setting in the haze. Went to bed at 9pm. |
|
|
|
|
|
Day: |
84 |
|
Date: |
Friday, 25 July 1986 |
|
Weather: |
Hot, humid, overcast. |
|
AT
Miles: |
25.3 |
|
Other
Miles: |
0.2 (shelter) |
|
AT
Cumulative Miles: |
1645.1 |
|
Total
Cumulative Miles: |
1692.2 |
|
Breakfast: |
Muesli, Quik |
|
Lunch: |
Biscuits and peanut butter. |
|
Dinner: |
Noodles, instant pudding. |
|
Aches: |
None bad. |
|
Animals
Seen: |
Chipmunks. |
|
People
Seen: |
15 day hikers, 8 overnight hikers, some
others. |
|
Journal: Got up at 5:30am and left soon after 7am
after spending some time itinerary planning.
Figured out that I can probably last until Hanover before buying food
if I stay at the Inn at Kent Pond. If
so, it mans a lighter pack for the climb over Killington. It was a warm morning made a little
bearable by a strong breeze. The Trail
was high on a ridge for quite a long time.
The vegetation is becoming conifer-dominated at altitude. I was in good spirits (lighter pack) and
made good time. The Trail was
occasionally rocky and boggy, but soft underfoot is good for the feet. The Trail passed Griffith Lake, an
attractive pond, and later the even more attractive Little Rock Pond. In between, it gave excellent views from
Baker Peak. Despite some fatigue, I
pushed on to a late lunch at the pretty Greenwall
Shelter before negotiating the last 4½ miles to Minerva Hinchey Shelter. Rain was forecast and it looked
threatening, but held off. Yet another
Shelter to myself. I wasted 20 minutes
finding the spring (wrong directions in guide book) but, apart from that,
washed and had dinner as normal and retired by 9pm. Just 500 miles to go. There’s a few mozzies around. |
|